I love experiencing the moment of epiphany with a guest, when they come in with little knowledge of Italian wine, and I’m able to help them find a bottle they love.
I'm confident that Ava Gene's version ($22), with its good spaghetti, spicy (but not overpowering) sauce and unusually shaped slips of tender guanciale is the city's best.Read More
Last year, we anointed Tusk a rising star. Now, the McFadden-Smith approach is unmistakable: a sensibility that informs a way of cooking, eating, and running a restaurant.Read More
Throughout the menu, Ava Gene's always finds its balance—between spice and starchy, saltiness and acidity, sweet and meaty. It's everything right about Italian cuisine, and all at once.Read More